Most people think sunscreen is simple: slap it on, go outside, stay safe. But if your sunscreen is leaving a white cast, stinging your eyes, or you’re not sure if you’re using enough, you’re not alone. In 2025, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is finalizing new rules that will change how OTC sunscreens are labeled and tested. If you’re relying on what you’ve always heard - like “SPF 100 lasts all day” or “mineral sunscreens are always safer” - you might be doing more harm than good.
What SPF Actually Means (And Why Higher Isn’t Always Better)
SPF stands for Sun Protection Factor. It measures how well a sunscreen blocks UVB rays - the ones that cause sunburn. But it’s not a linear scale. SPF 15 blocks about 93% of UVB rays. SPF 30 blocks 97%. SPF 50 blocks 98%. SPF 100? Just 99%. That last 1% difference doesn’t mean you can stay out twice as long. The FDA says SPF values above 50+ are misleading because they give people a false sense of security.
Here’s the math: SPF 30 means it takes 30 times longer for your skin to burn than if you wore no sunscreen at all. But that’s only if you apply the right amount - 2 milligrams per square centimeter of skin. For your face, that’s about a quarter teaspoon, or five pea-sized dots. Most people use less than half that. So even if you’re wearing SPF 50, you’re probably only getting the protection of SPF 20 or lower.
And here’s the kicker: SPF only measures UVB. It tells you nothing about UVA rays, which penetrate deeper, cause aging, and contribute to skin cancer. That’s where “broad spectrum” comes in.
Broad Spectrum Isn’t Just a Marketing Word - It’s a Requirement
Since 2012, the FDA has required sunscreens labeled “broad spectrum” to pass a test proving they protect against both UVA and UVB rays. The test looks at how far into the UVA spectrum the sunscreen blocks light - specifically, it must block wavelengths up to 370 nanometers or higher. Products that don’t meet this standard can’t say “broad spectrum,” even if they’re SPF 50.
But here’s where things get messy. In Consumer Reports’ 2025 testing of 107 sunscreens, many mineral-based sunscreens labeled “broad spectrum” failed the test. One product, Australian Botanical Mineral SPF 30, actually delivered only SPF 4 protection. Another, Black Girl Sunscreen Kids Lotion SPF 50, gave just SPF 13 and poor UVA coverage. These aren’t outliers - they’re common. Many mineral sunscreens rely on low concentrations of zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, which don’t spread evenly or absorb enough UVA light.
Chemical sunscreens - those with ingredients like avobenzone, octinoxate, or ecamsule - tend to perform better in lab tests. La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-in Milk SPF 60 scored 92 out of 100 for UV protection. Mineral options like Blue Lizard Sensitive SPF 50 scored just 55. That doesn’t mean mineral sunscreens are useless. They’re great for sensitive skin or melasma because zinc oxide has anti-inflammatory properties. But if your main goal is protection, not texture, chemical filters still lead.
Mineral vs. Chemical: Which Should You Use?
Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) sit on top of your skin and physically block UV rays. They start working immediately. That’s why they’re often recommended for kids, people with rosacea, or those allergic to chemical filters. But they often leave a white cast, especially on darker skin tones. A 2024 Reddit thread with over 1,200 comments from users with Fitzpatrick skin types IV-VI found that 68% said their mineral sunscreen left a noticeable residue, even after waiting.
Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat. They’re usually lighter, invisible on skin, and blend better under makeup. But they need about 15 minutes to activate. And some ingredients - like oxybenzone and octinoxate - have been linked to coral reef damage. Hawaii, Key West, and Palau banned them in 2021. The FDA is also reviewing whether to ban 12 chemical filters by 2026, though avobenzone and ecamsule are still considered safe.
For daily use, dermatologists like Dr. Michele Green recommend EltaMD UV Clear SPF 46 - it’s a mineral sunscreen with 9% zinc oxide and niacinamide, which helps calm redness and strengthen the skin barrier. For beach days or extended sun exposure, she leans toward chemical formulas like La Roche-Posay or Neutrogena Ultra Sheer, which pass rigorous broad-spectrum tests.
Reapplication: The Most Ignored Rule
Everyone says to reapply sunscreen every two hours. But according to a July 2024 study in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, only 14.3% of beachgoers actually do. Why? Because it’s inconvenient. You’re sweating. You’re swimming. You’re playing with kids. You forgot your bottle.
Here’s the truth: sunscreen doesn’t last longer just because it’s SPF 50 or 100. It breaks down. Sunlight degrades the active ingredients. Sweat and water wash them off. Towel drying removes up to 80% of what’s left on your skin. That’s why the FDA requires water resistance claims to be tested for either 40 or 80 minutes - no more, no less. If you’re swimming or sweating, reapply after that time. If you towel off, reapply immediately.
And don’t just rely on sprays. They’re easy to use, but most people don’t spray enough. A 2024 Statista survey found that 42% of spray users admit they don’t apply enough to cover their skin evenly. Sprays are better for hard-to-reach spots - like your back - but you still need to rub them in. Don’t just mist and walk away.
What to Look for on the Label (And What to Ignore)
Look for these three things:
- SPF 30 or higher - Anything lower doesn’t meet dermatologist guidelines.
- Broad Spectrum - Non-negotiable. If it’s not labeled this way, it’s not protecting you from aging or cancer.
- Water resistant (40 or 80 minutes) - This tells you how long it lasts in water or sweat. No claim? It’s not water resistant.
Ignore these:
- “SPF 100” - It’s not twice as good as SPF 50.
- “Waterproof” - No sunscreen is waterproof. The FDA banned that word in 2013.
- “Natural” or “Organic” - These aren’t regulated terms. A product can say “natural” and still contain oxybenzone.
- “Antioxidant-infused” - While vitamins C and E help, they don’t replace sunscreen. They’re a bonus, not a substitute.
Also check the active ingredients. If you’re using a mineral sunscreen, look for zinc oxide at 10% or higher. For chemical sunscreens, avobenzone (at least 3%) is the gold standard for UVA protection. Avoid products with PABA or trolamine salicylate - they’re being phased out by the FDA.
Real-World Problems and How to Fix Them
Here are the most common complaints - and how to solve them:
- White cast on dark skin - Try tinted mineral sunscreens like Black Girl Sunscreen or Supergoop! Glowscreen. Or switch to a chemical formula with iron oxides for a sheer finish.
- Stinging eyes - Avoid sunscreens with oxybenzone or octinoxate. Use a stick formula around the eyes, or try a mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide. EltaMD UV Clear is a top pick.
- Pilling under makeup - Wait 15 minutes after applying sunscreen before putting on foundation. Use a lightweight, non-greasy formula. Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40 is designed to disappear under makeup.
- Orange oxidation - Some sunscreens turn orange on skin due to reactions with iron in sweat. Try Caravee Hydrating Sheer Sunscreen SPF 30 - it uses a stabilized formula that doesn’t oxidize.
Pro tip: Use a UV camera app like Sunscreenr. It shows you where you missed spots. In a 2024 trial, users who used the app improved their coverage by 73%.
What’s Changing in 2025
The FDA is expected to finalize new sunscreen rules by December 2025. These include:
- Requiring all sunscreens to meet stricter UVA protection standards, matching the EU’s.
- Banning 12 chemical filters, including PABA and trolamine salicylate.
- Requiring clearer labeling on water resistance and reapplication.
- Testing sunscreens under more realistic conditions - like sweating and rubbing - not just in controlled labs.
Meanwhile, the market is shifting. Mineral sunscreens are growing fast - projected to hit 35% of the U.S. market by 2027. But their effectiveness still lags behind chemical formulas. New tech is coming, too. Shade Smart, a wearable UV sensor launching in Q2 2025, will alert you via phone when it’s time to reapply.
For now, stick with what works: SPF 30+, broad spectrum, water resistant, and reapplied every two hours - or after swimming, sweating, or towel drying. Don’t let marketing fool you. The science is clear: consistent, proper use cuts melanoma risk by 50%.
Is SPF 100 better than SPF 50?
No. SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays. SPF 100 blocks 99%. That extra 1% doesn’t mean you can stay out longer. Both require reapplication every two hours. Higher SPF numbers can mislead people into thinking they’re fully protected, leading to longer exposure and more damage.
Do I need sunscreen on cloudy days?
Yes. Up to 80% of UV rays penetrate clouds. Daily sunscreen use reduces skin aging by 90%, according to the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. If you’re outside for more than 10 minutes, even on overcast days, you need protection.
Can I rely on makeup with SPF instead of sunscreen?
No. Most makeup with SPF contains too little product to be effective. You’d need to apply seven times the normal amount of foundation to reach the labeled SPF. Always use a dedicated sunscreen underneath, even if your foundation has SPF.
Are mineral sunscreens safer for the environment?
Not necessarily. While zinc oxide and titanium dioxide don’t harm coral reefs like oxybenzone does, many mineral sunscreens contain nanoparticles or other additives that aren’t reef-safe. Look for “reef-safe” labels and avoid products with chemical filters like oxybenzone or octinoxate - regardless of whether they’re mineral or chemical.
How much sunscreen should I use on my face?
Use a quarter teaspoon - about the size of a nickel or five pea-sized dots. Most people use only half that, which cuts protection in half. Apply it evenly, covering ears, neck, and hairline. Don’t forget your lips - use a lip balm with SPF 30+.
Do I need to reapply sunscreen if I’m indoors all day?
If you’re near windows - especially in a car or office with large windows - yes. UVA rays penetrate glass and contribute to skin aging. If you’re in a windowless room all day, reapplication isn’t needed. But if you step outside at lunch or walk to your car, reapply after exposure.
